Edinburgh

Friday:

Off to Edinburgh, or Ed-in-bur-ah as the locals say. Isma drove today and Ricardo rode in the back with me. We parked near the castle in Edinburgh and climbed the hill to the top to start the Royal Mile at the castle. It's spectacular from behind, cropping off of the rocky cliffs and overlooking the city below. We did some more souvenir shopping-not my favorite thing-and then settled in for lunch at Deacon's Tavern. Apparently Deacon was a respected cabinet maker by day an a thief, gambler, and visitor of brothels by night. When he planned a robbery on the Excise Office, the police set off after him, and he ended up hung on the very gallows he had designed the year before. It seems that his double life was inspiration for Stevenson's book, " The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde." I ordered haggis, a dish of sheep innards. It was a risk, but tasted okay...though far from my favorite food. The boys ordered meat pies and fish. 

After lunch, we strolled down the Royal Mile, a main street of the old city, until the Holy Rood, stopping along the way to enter a church, the museum of childhood (built by a man who hated children), and to read various plaques. I drove Isma crazy reading the plaques...every single one there was. I just like to know everything!

Apart from the Royal Mile, we saw monuments dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, David Livingstone, and soldiers from WWI. This was our last night here. I'm sad to be leaving Scotland. The mornings waking up and eating breakfast with the others, beautiful views, and having someone dear to say good morning and good night to: that I will miss. On the other hand, I'm ready to get back to work because I'm well rested. Good vacation. 

Campbell Land

Thursday:

The sun came out today! Early risers get the worm-or a good breakfast before heading off to Argyll and Bute, Campbell territory. My dad's middle name is Campbell, his grandmother's last name. They're a relatively easy family to track down in Scotland's history, so that's why I was able to visit the lands of these ancestors. On the way to their castles, we did a quick detour in Glencoe, where the Campbells massacred the Macdonalds, one of their rival clans. The MacDonalds had delayed in giving their allegiance to the king, and so some officials took advantage of the Campbell's hatred for the MacDonald clan to punish the MacDonalds. The Campbells went to the MacDonalds' home, stayed several days there, and then at dawn a shot went off. Many died from gunshot wounds, more died from exposure in the snow covered mountains. It's one of the more shameful parts of our history.

Next, we stopped in a country church to take photos in the cementary. I believe I'd been driving the guys crazy wanting to visit a cementary to read the epitaphs and last names. This one was full of Campbells and MacDonalds.

After driving through barren land and spotting some deer, we arrived at Loch Awe and Kilchurn Castle, now in ruins, in a high spot partially surrounded by the lake and the other half by low wetlands. It was built by Colin Campbell, the same man who built a castle earlier in Inveraray our next stop. Inveraray is the seat of the Campbells, one of the most powerful clans in Scotland and still and powerful family. When we toured the new castle, the guide recognized my scarf and asked if I was a Campbell. Why, yes, at least partially, I happily replied. What history and stories the family has! I hope to be able to see where my family more specifically comes from, but I'm not sure I ever will because I'm sure to be occupied with other tasks.

After the castle visit, we went to jail. Isma had murdered someone (not his fault) and I'd stolen a pie. I'm not sure what Ricardo and Marcos had done; they didn't talk much about it. Just kidding. :) We actually went to the Inveraray Jail, a museum detailing the history of the jail system in Scotland. I highly recommend it. For supper, Scottish Pie with baked beans. Mmmmm. The darkness fell as we drove away from my ancestral lands, and I as usual, fell asleep in the car on the way home.

Wind and Blizzards

Monday:
Up at 7, breakfast together, then bundled up for the long drive to the Isle of Skye. In the first stop, I braved the frosty hill down to a pristine lake with dark slate shores to breathe in the crisp air. I'm glad I could convince the guys that it wasn't icy so that they'd come down too. The views here take my breath away.

Second stop was Eilean Donan Castle. The tide was out and black weeds frilled the gap between the still waters and the stone seawall. We entered the store, but not the castle. Isma got me a scarf with the Campbell tartan.

Then, up over the bridge to Skye. The highlights of the drizzly day were having a tea with a tart, hot chocolate and scones, a photo with a classic red phone booth, sheep crossing the highway, road works with the convoy system (interesting at first, a pain when repeated), a short muddy walk to a waterfall, braving the wind to see a huge waterfall off the side of a cliff in the Atlantic, and basking in the raw beauty and power of the island. The wind was cold and biting and it rained off and on throughout the day, but what else can you expect in northern Scotland at the end of March?

Tuesday
Today, Loch Ness and Inverness. We (fortunately) got to sleep in a bit because Loch Ness is so much closer than Skye. Outside was white, but the roads were clear as we headed out to find Nessie. The closer we got to the coast and inverness, the more the snow decreased and it started to rain. The only explanation I can think of has to do with the distance from the sea and change in altitude. Loch Ness must be beautiful,but it was awfully rainy to fully enjoy the scenery. We went through the museum "The Loch Ness Centre" and learned about Britain's largest lake, the legends, and what they think may have caused sightings and strange fish findings. Isma fulfilled his goal of buying a a kilt in Inverness. Handsome, I must say. Though I'm afraid it'll have to be just a costume in Spain.

Wednesday
Day of rest. Snow in the morning, continuing from the drive the night before, caused some roads to close and blizzards in the high hills. In the morning we tried to go to a distillery, but they were closed for tours. Instead, we bundled up and trekked into Newtonmore. Lunch there, carrot adn cilantro coup and grilled cheese, was one of the best meals I've had in a long time. In the afternoon we tried to go to the nursery tea shop again, but as can be expected, no luck. At least Isma got a picture with sheep! And lots with snow. Once home for good, I made a fire in the fireplace. Reminded me of when Dad and I used to make fires in the wood stove. And Colin too...except I don't know why I always erase you from my stories, Colin. Sorry!

Scotland Photos

I finally got the photos organized, labeled, and uploaded. There's still a lot, but I cut out at least half of them. Hope that you can see that, despite the cold wind and rain, we really enjoyed ourselves in beautiful Scotland!

Scotland 2010

Reindeer Brunch

Saturday:
Up before the crack of dawn. Isma's dad accompanied us to the airport at 4:45 am to drive the car back to their house. Bleary eyed and with bags on our backs and in hand, we waited in the long Easy Jet check-in line until both Ricardo and Isma's cousin Marcos joined us. First we flew to London, then caught a plane to Inverness, in the Highlands. The first flight was packed, and we all had to sit separately. Much more luck on the second. After landing in Inverness, it was a couple hours' drive on a windy highway bordered by green fields to Newtonmore. Green fields covered with rain.

Sunday:


Our guide

Wishing I had my snowboots. After a breakfast of toast, tea, and milk, the four of us set out to see the reindeer in the Cairngorms, a national park. In the Scottish language, "cairn" means "stony hill" and "gorm" means "blue / green." We rented some wellies (rainboots) to make the short muddy walk up the mountain to where the reindeer were grazing. I loved the trek: the black earth, the bright green grass that reminded me of snake grass, the purple heather, and the low hanging tree branches bejeweled with rain drops. The reindeer were enclosed in a fenced area that covered several mountains and valleys...enclosed but free. The guide brought the reindeer to us in a way that evoked images of the Pied Piper of Hamilton. We fed them grain by hand and they greedily ate, occasionally brushing up against us with their antlers. It surprised us all how small the reindeer were after imagining them bigger with Santa's sleigh. With antlers, they came up to my shoulder perhaps.




Loch An Eilein

After eating lunch at the cottage, we explored the area a bit more, stopping to walk around Loch An Eilein to see some castle ruins when the rain stoppped for a bit, and stopping by Ruthven Barracks on our way home. We tried to have tea at a much recommended nursery/tea and cake shop, but they closed at 5, like everything else. And we thought teatime started at 5. Apparently one must have tea at home.



Ruthven Barracks

P.S.

Happy Easter! Happy Resurrection Sunday! I must say that I missed some of our traditions, like chocolate bunnies and decorating Easter eggs and egg hunts and all. And seeing the little girls in their new Easter dresses. But we did celebrate Easter here, the essential, and that makes today a day for rejoicing as much as all other days.

I really should finish unpacking now or go to bed!

by yon bonny banks and by yon bonny braes

Can you hear me now?? If you look in the glass door, you should see Isma's reflection as he takes the picture.

I'm back now from a week in Scotland. The four of us (Isma, Ricardo, Marcos, and myself) arrived in Madrid about 9:30pm and Isma and I were in house a little before 10:30. We had a little bit of all weather: rain, snow, blizzard, sleet, fog, sun, and wind. It's kind of like going to a weather buffet...you try a little of everything before deciding what you want. The only thing that didn't change was the temperature: the thermostat stuck on "cold." I kept a journal, so this coming week I'll leave a basic itinerary and upload the photos so you can see. I enjoyed the journey back to ancestral lands throughly: between the breathtaking landscape, the heavy white snow, crackling fires in the fireplace, and good travel companions, it was just wonderful.